Xperia PHOTO PRO 一些使用心得 - 手機討論
By Jacky
at 2021-07-24T17:25
at 2021-07-24T17:25
Table of Contents
在這裡重新說一下PHOTO PRO
我個人的一些使用心得
我上次那篇文有提一下
這次補充稍微詳細
我在Xperia 5II裝上
Xperia 1mk3版本的PHOTO PRO
用Xperia 的朋友可以參考一下
有些小技巧屬於個人見解
如有更好的方式可以交流交流
不過真心佩服買Xperia 1mk3的板友
手上有Xperia 5II真的沒有太大慾望
PHOTO PRO模式下
對焦方式有三種
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330462852_94825d651e_b.jpg
單次AF 適合拿來拍靜態
連續AF 適合拿來拍動態
跟最後的手動對焦MF
對焦區域有分兩種 寬跟中心
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920789_e009b2abef_b.jpg
對焦區域 寬
對焦範圍是觀景窗畫面247點
系統會自動偵測
要使用物件追焦、人眼對焦要在這個模式下
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408908_53c1b45360_b.jpg
人眼對焦
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408713_bf7f4c3004_b.jpg
這個模式主要是抓拍跟拍動態好用
配合連續AF
半按快門時對焦點會不斷重複偵測
對焦點會隨場景改變
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192635_ff3e268f33_b.jpg
對焦區域 中心
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330462817_dc334a0687_b.jpg
觀景窗中心會出現白色框框
對焦正確白色框框會變成綠色,如果對焦錯誤會變成紫色
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408878_b5df2b3ff2_b.jpg
如果要拍靜態景或文件
對焦區域還是建議使用中心
並且用單次AF
測光模式又分三種
多重測光適合普通場景跟抓拍
整體亮度會平均測定
中央測光就是拿來使用在
逆光高反差比較複雜的場景
還有最後更嚴謹的點測光
讓細節曝光更準確用來微距、拍文件
手機相機沒辦法調整光圈
所以影響畫面亮度主要是快門速度跟ISO值
測光的動作只是在逆光或高反差場景
快速判斷拍攝場景需要的快門參數
在P模式下
三種測光模式下都可以讓畫面中心對著高光區域做測光的動作
多重測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920144_bdf548b432_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/1250秒
中央測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408228_8e697cd64e_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/3200秒
點測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195036_f391793dd6_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/5000秒
測光完可以按AEL鎖住當下快門值
然後開始構圖拍攝
亮度不足可以調整EV或ISO來控制亮度
覺得EV值只有+-2不足
可以直接開S模式或M模式微調快門速度
或用Google相簿功能拉暗部亮度
夜拍街景時可以用P模式透過這三種測光模式
快速判斷高光不過曝需使用的快門值
夜拍街景建議使用中央測光
但S模式跟M模式基本上測光模式無法作用
因為控制亮度的快門值是手動控制鎖死
觀景窗畫面右下的直方圖
點選介面的DISP可以開啟
是對曝光畫面曝光的參考
靠左邊是暗部、靠右邊是亮部
看到鋒值破表代表細節流失
波形偏左欠曝
波形偏右過曝
正常日拍除非是大太陽高反差的景
使用HDR拍攝是不需要這樣去測光
這樣暗部拍出來會欠曝
多重測光下用AEL鎖在1/1250s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192370_6fd220923d_b.jpg
看直方圖很明顯亮部細節保留了
但暗部細節欠曝
就算沒直方圖看
看觀景窗預覽也很清楚
但HDR模式下還是會拉一點暗部的亮度起來
快門按下去才會知道結果
多重測光下用AEL鎖在1/1250s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463632_35b8257529_o.jpg
調整EV+2快門變化到1/1000s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920894_9fa90b3a85_o.jpg
再說一次上面使用的測光計算完快門鎖定再拍照
對於高反差場景或夜拍街景會比較常用到
一般日拍小逆光用多重測光加HDR去拍攝即可
正常測光 1/320s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195126_4272698fdd_b.jpg
拍攝出來照片是這樣
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332193605_f67999556d_o.jpg
當然想拍亮一點就快門放慢
1/125s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192860_7a7c0cfb4b_o.jpg
反之快門拉快
1/600s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331196081_578c26c9fe_o.jpg
相機BASIC模式會用
連續AF
對焦區域寬
多重測光
這個模式組合下運作
我不知道是否AI偵測會自動改變測光模式
但這BASIC模式夜拍高反差很容易過曝
而且HDR也不能強制打開
AI判斷要開才會開
要AUTO也設計得太無腦了
雖然設定內可以改成單次對焦
觸碰螢幕預設功能是物件追蹤
也是可以改設定
但就很不直覺
兩種相機UI設計操作邏輯
感覺就兩派不同人設計的
這代雖然整合在一個APP
感覺還是很微妙= =
我個人還是建議用習慣P模式
再來講一下白平衡校正
沒效正拍出來的照片色調是這樣
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463782_08ba2738bb_o.jpg
校正過
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463757_f43a6ed062_o.jpg
要校正白平衡
拍照UI中AWB點進去
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408393_ef84441635_b.jpg
看到最下面
會有自訂1、自訂2、自訂3
三個自訂設定可以選用
點選自訂1在按套用
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195186_04222c7e91_b.jpg
畫面中間會有個橘色框框
可以找畫面中白色或著灰色的區域
中央對準按套用即可
要準確些可以去弄張18度灰卡
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331197366_917c14e988_b.jpg
至於校色前後色調還是要看個人喜好
不過室內複雜光源利用這個校色工具
是比較能拍出被攝物體原本的色彩
補一組GCam測試
GCam(MGC版) HDR+直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331485861_4ce5303166_o.jpg
使用在Xperia上問題蠻多只能堪用
三個鏡頭都能使用
但點螢幕要調EV就畫面卡死當掉
也許色調、白平衡沒那麼OK
放大看建築物磁磚很銳利
但我覺得疊圖計算補細節有點過頭了
PHOTO PRO HDR直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332483825_034ab87685_o.jpg
Lightroom HDR RAW
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331698303_246b79d512_o.jpg
無意間發現Lightroom App
可以拍攝HDR DNG的照片(一張40幾MB)
還能同時保留原生DNG(加起來一套60MB)
拍攝手要很穩
然後非常吃手機運算
手機電量會狂噴
拍完還會直接在Lightroom自動ai修圖
連拍七八張左右手機就會過熱罷工= =
夜晚HDR街拍測試
中央測光招牌AEL HDR直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329828403_cf19da4ca9_o.jpg
不過還是RAW寬容性更好一些
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329838483_cdbaa4be33_o.jpg
中央測光招牌AEL HDR直出(有用google相簿拉一點亮度)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328898462_c56c33c35a_o.jpg
RAW
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330373019_fb98234640_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328863972_f7b9b32155_o.jpg
今天放假閒閒也從照片庫
找了幾張之前的RAW來修
Xperia 5II拍攝
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51316499197_3423f7ca7a_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51316498852_c6ff2a2d27_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51317232571_c1b69647f1_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330086983_e8083d1f67_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329878101_e5edd156ae_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330871265_40f33b5406_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330870945_6f02ebb139_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330601784_e92e8fb46b_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330870830_dd016b6ccc_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330086313_2d7ef851f4_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330870625_ef93b023a4_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330601564_3102a4f01f_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330870710_2419b039eb_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329877921_dab6b79e0c_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329162037_e45447cfd9_o.jpg
--
Sent from my Windows
--
我個人的一些使用心得
我上次那篇文有提一下
這次補充稍微詳細
我在Xperia 5II裝上
Xperia 1mk3版本的PHOTO PRO
用Xperia 的朋友可以參考一下
有些小技巧屬於個人見解
如有更好的方式可以交流交流
不過真心佩服買Xperia 1mk3的板友
手上有Xperia 5II真的沒有太大慾望
PHOTO PRO模式下
對焦方式有三種
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330462852_94825d651e_b.jpg
單次AF 適合拿來拍靜態
連續AF 適合拿來拍動態
跟最後的手動對焦MF
對焦區域有分兩種 寬跟中心
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920789_e009b2abef_b.jpg
對焦區域 寬
對焦範圍是觀景窗畫面247點
系統會自動偵測
要使用物件追焦、人眼對焦要在這個模式下
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408908_53c1b45360_b.jpg
人眼對焦
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408713_bf7f4c3004_b.jpg
這個模式主要是抓拍跟拍動態好用
配合連續AF
半按快門時對焦點會不斷重複偵測
對焦點會隨場景改變
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192635_ff3e268f33_b.jpg
對焦區域 中心
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330462817_dc334a0687_b.jpg
觀景窗中心會出現白色框框
對焦正確白色框框會變成綠色,如果對焦錯誤會變成紫色
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408878_b5df2b3ff2_b.jpg
如果要拍靜態景或文件
對焦區域還是建議使用中心
並且用單次AF
測光模式又分三種
多重測光適合普通場景跟抓拍
整體亮度會平均測定
中央測光就是拿來使用在
逆光高反差比較複雜的場景
還有最後更嚴謹的點測光
讓細節曝光更準確用來微距、拍文件
手機相機沒辦法調整光圈
所以影響畫面亮度主要是快門速度跟ISO值
測光的動作只是在逆光或高反差場景
快速判斷拍攝場景需要的快門參數
在P模式下
三種測光模式下都可以讓畫面中心對著高光區域做測光的動作
多重測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920144_bdf548b432_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/1250秒
中央測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408228_8e697cd64e_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/3200秒
點測光
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195036_f391793dd6_b.jpg
對著天空測光快門速度到1/5000秒
測光完可以按AEL鎖住當下快門值
然後開始構圖拍攝
亮度不足可以調整EV或ISO來控制亮度
覺得EV值只有+-2不足
可以直接開S模式或M模式微調快門速度
或用Google相簿功能拉暗部亮度
夜拍街景時可以用P模式透過這三種測光模式
快速判斷高光不過曝需使用的快門值
夜拍街景建議使用中央測光
但S模式跟M模式基本上測光模式無法作用
因為控制亮度的快門值是手動控制鎖死
觀景窗畫面右下的直方圖
點選介面的DISP可以開啟
是對曝光畫面曝光的參考
靠左邊是暗部、靠右邊是亮部
看到鋒值破表代表細節流失
波形偏左欠曝
波形偏右過曝
正常日拍除非是大太陽高反差的景
使用HDR拍攝是不需要這樣去測光
這樣暗部拍出來會欠曝
多重測光下用AEL鎖在1/1250s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192370_6fd220923d_b.jpg
看直方圖很明顯亮部細節保留了
但暗部細節欠曝
就算沒直方圖看
看觀景窗預覽也很清楚
但HDR模式下還是會拉一點暗部的亮度起來
快門按下去才會知道結果
多重測光下用AEL鎖在1/1250s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463632_35b8257529_o.jpg
調整EV+2快門變化到1/1000s
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331920894_9fa90b3a85_o.jpg
再說一次上面使用的測光計算完快門鎖定再拍照
對於高反差場景或夜拍街景會比較常用到
一般日拍小逆光用多重測光加HDR去拍攝即可
正常測光 1/320s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195126_4272698fdd_b.jpg
拍攝出來照片是這樣
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332193605_f67999556d_o.jpg
當然想拍亮一點就快門放慢
1/125s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332192860_7a7c0cfb4b_o.jpg
反之快門拉快
1/600s ISO64
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331196081_578c26c9fe_o.jpg
相機BASIC模式會用
連續AF
對焦區域寬
多重測光
這個模式組合下運作
我不知道是否AI偵測會自動改變測光模式
但這BASIC模式夜拍高反差很容易過曝
而且HDR也不能強制打開
AI判斷要開才會開
要AUTO也設計得太無腦了
雖然設定內可以改成單次對焦
觸碰螢幕預設功能是物件追蹤
也是可以改設定
但就很不直覺
兩種相機UI設計操作邏輯
感覺就兩派不同人設計的
這代雖然整合在一個APP
感覺還是很微妙= =
我個人還是建議用習慣P模式
再來講一下白平衡校正
沒效正拍出來的照片色調是這樣
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463782_08ba2738bb_o.jpg
校正過
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330463757_f43a6ed062_o.jpg
要校正白平衡
拍照UI中AWB點進去
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331408393_ef84441635_b.jpg
看到最下面
會有自訂1、自訂2、自訂3
三個自訂設定可以選用
點選自訂1在按套用
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331195186_04222c7e91_b.jpg
畫面中間會有個橘色框框
可以找畫面中白色或著灰色的區域
中央對準按套用即可
要準確些可以去弄張18度灰卡
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331197366_917c14e988_b.jpg
至於校色前後色調還是要看個人喜好
不過室內複雜光源利用這個校色工具
是比較能拍出被攝物體原本的色彩
補一組GCam測試
GCam(MGC版) HDR+直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331485861_4ce5303166_o.jpg
使用在Xperia上問題蠻多只能堪用
三個鏡頭都能使用
但點螢幕要調EV就畫面卡死當掉
也許色調、白平衡沒那麼OK
放大看建築物磁磚很銳利
但我覺得疊圖計算補細節有點過頭了
PHOTO PRO HDR直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332483825_034ab87685_o.jpg
Lightroom HDR RAW
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51331698303_246b79d512_o.jpg
無意間發現Lightroom App
可以拍攝HDR DNG的照片(一張40幾MB)
還能同時保留原生DNG(加起來一套60MB)
拍攝手要很穩
然後非常吃手機運算
手機電量會狂噴
拍完還會直接在Lightroom自動ai修圖
連拍七八張左右手機就會過熱罷工= =
夜晚HDR街拍測試
中央測光招牌AEL HDR直出
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329828403_cf19da4ca9_o.jpg
不過還是RAW寬容性更好一些
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329838483_cdbaa4be33_o.jpg
中央測光招牌AEL HDR直出(有用google相簿拉一點亮度)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328898462_c56c33c35a_o.jpg
RAW
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330373019_fb98234640_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51328863972_f7b9b32155_o.jpg
今天放假閒閒也從照片庫
找了幾張之前的RAW來修
Xperia 5II拍攝
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51316499197_3423f7ca7a_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51316498852_c6ff2a2d27_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51317232571_c1b69647f1_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51330086983_e8083d1f67_o.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51329878101_e5edd156ae_o.jpg
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